Why Animal Disaster Preparedness?
by Diana
Guerrero
Copyright© 1996 By Diana Guerrero
Animal Disaster Preparedness (ADP); What is it and do we really need to
be concerned about it? Imagine these few scenes:
Early morning, rains begin to cause the river to rise. Soon the news is
that you have to prepare to evacuate, then it is confirmed that you have
to leave. Are you ready in 20 minutes? How about your pets? You leave
food and water out, animals and valuables upstairs, and guess what, you
loose everything: Including your pets whose futile cries rendered them
horse. They all died by drowning, crying out in vain for human help.
ARE
YOU PREPARED?
"How
many people are prepared so that IF
WE HAD A DISASTER RIGHT NOW COULD YOU SURVIVE WHERE YOU ARE? DO
YOU HAVE A KIT IN YOUR VEHICLE?" Even groups with rescue personnel never
had more than a few in the audience who were ready. This is
disconcerting if you are going to rely on them for help!
It
is unreasonable to prepare for your animals if you are not prepared for
yourself and your family. Most people are in denial; "It
won't happen again...," or "My animals are not my priority, my family
is...," Most of these
comments were in response to the question "Do
you have a disaster kit for your pets?" Most
people when pressed did not have kits in their cars for their families
and some had young infants with them!
Disaster preparedness is a pain. Every time I make sure my fuel tank is
full or I try to work in my suitcase around my disaster kits for myself
and my animals I utter a few choice words, but I am ready. You and your
pets should be too. Animal Disaster Preparedness (ADP) has historically
been and overlooked part of Disaster Preparedness Programs. Only
recently are there are numerous organizations dealing with this issue
and they try to work in conjunction with each other. These efforts are
great but still at the infancy level or development, some areas still do
not consider this issue an important one to take proactive action on.
ADP
is a critical part of total disaster planning. In the past, people have
refused to abandon their animals despite the threat to their own well
being, while others have just let their animals loose hoping that they
will survive and that perhaps they can recover them later, and some
animals escape, never to be seen again. Before, during, and after
disasters there are unique problems posed by our companion animals. To
deal with them you have to start at the beginning.
THE
BEGINNING: QUESTIONS TO ADDRESS
It
is important to ask a few key questions like; What
kind of disasters affect your area? How can you prepare for them? Do you
have any warning before them? Can you develop an evacuation plan? Who
are the agencies that will be involved in the event of a disaster?
Most
area have more than one type of disaster. The
The
next step is to determine what types of actions you'll need to take to
adapt to the emergency. You'll want to start with emergency contacts.
These contacts are necessary for your animals and will be pet
professionals or people who are familiar with your animals. They will be
various agencies or groups you deal with on a regular basis. Others will
be those who will be needed in an emergency. Advance preparation in
developing these contacts will pay off when you are faced with a serious
situation. Here are some examples to use in developing your own list.
Add or delete according to your specific needs:
EMERGENCY CONTACT LIST
Petsitters Kennels Veterinarians
Local Shelters (50 mile radius)
Boarding Facilities/Shelters (100 mile radius)
Neighbors (2 or more. Do a neighborhood team plan!)
Friend or person who knows your animals well.
Out of state contact. (All those on your list need this number too.)
List of pet & feed stores.
List of groomers.
List of animal behavior consultants or trainers.
Local animal rescue groups.
Other non-profit animal rescue groups.
This is important. Find out what groups there are and who is in charge.
Ask yourself if you are ready. ARE
YOU REALLY READY? Be
honest. Could you evacuate
now without notice and have all you need? How about your animals? How
long would it take to evacuate them? If your helpers have animals how do
you decide who to evacuate first?
Check with the non-profit humane societies in your area to see if they
have their own plan and an animal evacuation group. If they do not and
would like help in developing one see the resource listing in the back.
Other agencies to check with include Animal Control, City Hall, the
local chapter of the American Red Cross, the Fire Department or a law
enforcement agency such as the Sheriff. If you have a Search and Rescue
Team in the area they would probably know about a plan, and don't forget
to ask the librarian! You'll often find human planning but it is pretty
rare to find this type of planning for animals.
DO YOU NEED AN EVACUATION PLAN?
If
you are in an isolated area, have numerous animals, are in a city, or
have a pet service or animal related business then the answer is YES!
Plan for times when you are not in, when you are at capacity, for
different weather conditions (remember the power will be off), and have
several escape routes and time frames for your clients/friends to
operate on. These are not happy topics to think about but it is better
to be prepared than to face the consequences. Remember, even with the
best planning you cannot expect it to all go well or according to plans.
A good rule of thumb is to expect
the unexpected.
PROVIDING FOR YOUR ANIMALS NEEDS
DURING DISASTER TIMES
This
listing could be fairly exhaustive. Remember it should be manageable.
You might want to make up a kit just like the original
ANIMAL RESCUE KIT (
Contains: Water bowl, food bowl, emergency tag, rescue sticker, wallet
alert card, 1 toy (dog or cat), 1 chew hoof or 1 catnip toy, treats,
emergency colored leash and collar, muzzle, tie out (dogs) brush, scoop
and bags or disposable litter tray/box, nutritional supplement (helps
stimulate appetite and get nutrition into stressed animals), booklet,
Veterinarian/Emergency release form, poster. Products are stored in a
waterproof container (5 gallon) that can be easily stored and grabbed on
the way out. Container can then be used to transport water. Food and
water need to be included but varieties in dietary needs and water
intake vary greatly. Be sure to include any special medications your pet
may need and make sure your animals food items are the normal diet or
you may have problems with a change.
DO IT YOURSELF KIT (DOG & CAT):
All
items listed in
food and water (minimum of 7 days, recommend 30 if you have the room)
collar with emergency tags (name, city, area code/phone, out of state
contact and veterinarians phone number) Anti-collar?
Seriously consider a tattoo or microchip system.
Include 30 days of medication for either a dog or cat.
Photos (Front and side views for poster)
Copy of medical records
Premade poster for missing animal(s) to attach photos to
Container of food to last for 7 to 30 days (dry is easiest)
Nutritional paste (to stimulate appetite and compensate for stress)
Water (five year shelf life recommended)
Containers for water? Old cat litter plastic jugs or a dispenser that
will fill with inverted 2 liter bottles (cola)
Favorite treats (they can be used for desensitization training)
Well fitting collar or harness and leash
Tie out and/or carrier (pre-train for good association, collapsible wire
the best)
Vitamins (for stress)
Food and water bowls
Brush or comb (calms you, calms them)
Pooper scoop, baggies, and litter, litterbox (folded cardboard box lined
with plastic)
Familiar toy, catnip, chews, owner scent on them is a plus (comfort is
the key, under stress they won't want strange items or maybe any! It may
help later however.)
Muzzle (for volunteer/veterinarian/your safety)
Deodorizer (for litter and surfaces)
First aid kit (check with your veterinarian)
Flotation device or aids.
You
may include: Eye ointment (dust) eyewash, Betadine or Provodine,
Hydrogen Peroxide, scissors, razor, gauze and tape, stop bleed powder,
Biosol or pet pectillin (for diarrhea), no shed liquid, ear swabs,
hemostats, tweezers, flea collar and aids, heartworm medication.
ANIMAL BEHAVIOR BEFORE & AFTER
DISASTERS
EARTHQUAKE WARNING BEHAVIOR IN ANIMALS
In
addition to traditional monitoring and other human predictions of
earthquakes animals also can give us clues to impending earth activity.
Warning signs before quake activity are not always present in all
animals. It seems to be more common in rural and wild animals. The more
desensitized or exposed the animal is to various conditions and noises
the less the animal seems to react. Signs are present most commonly
between 24 to 48 hours prior to earth activity but have been observed
for up to 30 days in advance! Unfortunately they do not clue us into how
large the activity will be.
CATS: Cats
will be jumpy. You may see warning signs such as hiding, running around
frantically trying to escape to the outside, hanging on screens and
meowing, or behavior unusual for your pet. Many times they will be
aggressive, or will want to stick close to or be on top of you. Pacing,
hissing, or growling can also be symptoms. Most cats will hide, so check
their favorite hiding places and behind cupboards, refrigerators, sofas,
beds, in closets, in the backs of washers and dryers, and on top of
cupboards, shelves and behind the water heater. Check small spaces in
the backs of any appliance since they will often seek out dark and small
areas.
DOGS: Dogs
will usually not hide. Behavior exhibited before quake activity includes
howling, whining, barking, restlessness, aggression, and increased
devotion to owners. They will usually run around, and can bolt through
gates, windows, or doors, and whine or stick to you like glue. Some dogs
will become more protective or aggressive while others will be fearful
or act dejected. Pay attention to their personalities and individual
needs and you will be able to avoid trouble. Drastic differences in the
number of advertised lost dogs and the animal shelter loads can precede
quake activity in a specific area. Large increases in these numbers
could give you a clue to upcoming earth activity.
POST
DISASTER ANIMAL BEHAVIOR
Animals react differently depending on the disaster. Each type of animal
and disaster will present it's unique challenges. Most animals will
panic, while some will turn to you for security, much the same as
people. Toileting, eating, and other habits will sometimes change for
the worse, and physical problems such as obsessive chewing, licking, or
excessive shedding can be symptoms of high stress.
CATS: It
is normal for cats to disappear. Usually they will be hiding nearby or
in their favorite hiding places. In earthquake activity it is normal for
them to disappear for a minimum of 24 to 72 hours. If there is more
quake activity the time will be lengthened. If cats are stranded in
flood areas or somewhere in the house, they will cry incessantly and
will often loose their voices. Most often they will be visible at dusk
or very early in the morning.
Litterbox problems are normal at this time, it is okay to move their box
to where they feel secure, at least until things settle down more. They
may not want to eat due to stress, and that is normal. Most pets have
enough extra weight to carry them through this safely. Some animals will
be aggressive and bite or scratch. They will often try to escape during
this time, so it is extremely important to be careful when exiting or
entering. Sometimes this is complicated by building collapse or window
breakage so your animals should be tagged or have some sort of
identification on them. Carriers for cats are a must. Collapsible wire
cages allow for better air circulation and can be covered with a blanket
or towel to block noise and create a more secluded environment. They
should easily hold a disposable litterbox too.
In
the case of fire, leave an escape route but they are probably out before
you are anyway! You should have an EVAC-SAC (See ACES under resources)
to put cats into for safe transport. If you are on a second story you
can safely lower your animals down in these. You should also have a rope
ladder for yourself!
DOGS: Dogs
will not usually hide. Behavior exhibited after a quake or another
disaster are similar to those exhibited before. Unlike cats, dogs will
usually run blindly out of their home territory. Unfortunately a fallen
gate, collapsed door, or a broken window often provide escape routes.
Dogs may be hit by a vehicle and killed or severely injured. Again, it
is important that your animal be tagged or marked for identification. A
tie out or collapsible wire crate are the best ways to secure your pet.
POST DISASTER PROBLEMS
If
you find a dead animal after a disaster do not dispose of the body - it
is important for pet/animal owners to know what happened to their
beloved pet. Often shelters or other rescue groups have books of
deceased animal pictures to help pet owners find out for sure. If you
have a health hazard developing, take a photo, remove any ID collars,
tags, note special scars or markings and then dispose of the carcass.
One
of the other big problems dogs present is a behavior pattern of running
in a pack. These packs often prey on other animals, raid storage areas,
disperse garbage (creating health hazards) and cause other disconcerting
problems. There are still packs of dogs running loose from the 1971
earthquake in
Remember that human shelters will not allow you to take your pet inside
with you. It is critical that you have a way to keep your dog/cat under
control with either a crate or a tie out cable. Some animal shelters
will be able to help you if you provide the needed restraint devices.
Keep your animal with you if you do have to evacuate. Dogs left tied in
flood zones will probably drown, even if they can swim they probably
won't reach a safe spot before they exhaust themselves. Anywhere there
is an increase in water deposits will result in an increase of fleas,
mosquitoes, and later heartworm.
HAZARDS
All
disasters have unique problems not only due to the type of disaster but
also due to the location and population. Problems found include cuts and
bruises, as well as shock and dehydration. Confine your animal during
and after a disaster to prevent escape and further injury.
In
earthquakes, most problems animals face are cuts from glass, broken
bones, injuries from falling objects, injury by being hit by a car, or
dehydration. Hurricanes and tornadoes leave animals with broken bones,
and severe injuries from being hit and cut open by flying objects.
Floods and storms also contribute to surges in flea, tick, and mosquito
populations which may result in an increase of heartworm. Contaminated
water, injury from floating or moving objects, and exhaustion can create
other problems.
In
the case of a fire, burns, eye irritation, and smoke inhalation are only
a few of the problems. Panicked animals, such as horses, can hurt
themselves on fencing and can later ingest toxic substances if the area
where they are housed is not cleaned up. Remember that your water pipes
may be melted and other sources to obtain water will be needed.
ALWAYS TAKE YOUR ANIMALS WITH YOU!
Animals will become disoriented and panicked. You can place them at a
location if you have made prior arrangements and have carriers for them.
If left alone, they could be crushed in aftershock activity, or run off
and eaten by predators. In flood zones they will drown if left confined
or tied down. In fires, they may panic and hurt themselves by running
into or through fences. Common problems are burns or broken limbs in
horses, colic, and eye irritations. Fatalities are often from smoke
inhalation and any ingestion of chemicals on metal corrals brought to
the surface from the heat.
DESENSITIZATION & OTHER TRAINING
This
is best done before any disaster. You can train your pet or other
animals to come with a word, noise, or whistle by rewarding them with
food every time you present the specific sound. Horses kept out in a
pasture should be trained to pen or trailer. They will be extremely
stressed if they have to be penned or housed in a stall environment if
they are not. If you take some precautions and spend small increments of
time training then later, if your animals are lost or hiding, this will
allow you or someone else to retrieve them and relocate them into a safe
area.
You
can use a similar method to crate train smaller animals by feeding them
in the crate and leaving the door off at first. Once they are
comfortable with the crate you can add a cue (word, whistle, noise) and
have them enter the crate for food. This creates a good association.
Another way is to use the crate as a bedding or den area for dogs or
cats.
Once
the animal is comfortable with the crate you can add the door and close
it, gradually leaving it shut for longer periods of time. To start this
training, have the animal get comfortable with the crate for up to a two
week period. When you first add the door, shut it and immediately open
it when the animal is in. If the animal becomes frightened you probably
proceeded too fast. If that happens, go back to the last point of
success and proceed again slowly.
If
you do this training right the animals will have good associations with
the crate. Eventually dogs can use the crate as a den area to sleep in
(cats too). Birds with a nest box attached to the outside of the cage
can also be confined in the next box and transported in an emergency.
Be
sure not to use this training technique before going to the veterinarian
or groomer since some animals often have negative associations with
those places and it may undo all your efforts.
A
similar technique of using a food association with a cue and a
distracting behavior (this comes from Operant Conditioning methods) can
be used to help calm traumatized animals. Association with something
else besides an aftershock, for instance, is possible; This is called
desensitization.
One
dog, who panicked, ran around and barked during the hundreds of
aftershocks following the Big Bear Valley California earthquake. Since
he had a strong food drive, to change his association, the owner called
him as he was running around, asked him if he wanted a bone
(distraction), then asked for a behavior (sit) and rewarded him when he
responded. Soon he had a good association to aftershocks and quit
panicking! The owner could not sleep from all the quake activity so it
distracted her as well.